img5743What is the one thing most often heard when it's time to install new deck hardware? No, it's not "I have a root canal I should do first". How about, "I'm always really nervous when it comes to drilling holes in my boat."

If your boat is new, or almost new, you can take that nervous feeling in the pit of your stomach and multiply it by a factor of five! The one thing to remember though is if you are feeling weak in the knees about drilling holes in your unblemished deck, that nervous feeling in your gut is good! Just think how cautious you're going to be before you drill. You'll check every hole location five or six times to make sure it's in exactly the right place. I can guarantee that because it is your boat, your true love, your baby, your secret desire, you will check many more times before each hole is drilled than if you had your hardware installed by a professional.

The first thing you do is pretty obvious: find the right location to mount the new hardware. Sounds simple, but here are a few thing to remember to keep it truely simple. Even though the new cleat might look in the perfect position when the boat was docked, it could be a nightmare to get to when the boat is sailing heeled over hard. With this in mind, place the piece of hardware in a position you think works best at all angles of heel. Next, check the hardware by running a piece of line through it to ensure that the "lead of the line is fair". Translation: "make sure the line is not chaffing or rubbing on anything and that it isn't entering the hardware at a funny angle" (see why it's easier just to say "line is fair?").

For example, if the line is entering your new block at an odd angle, both the line and the block won't last long. It will also be very hard to pull. So, line entry/exit angle is very important! It will probably take several tries to get it right.

After using up your precious patience to find just the right spot for your new block, here are a few more things to consider before calling it good. Since most hardware requires thru-bolting to the underside (say of the cabin top), it must be accessible. Also, the underside has to be clear of other installed items such as a light. You sure don't want to drill into things like that! The last thing is to check and see if the fitting is ergonomically correct. Ergo-What? Hey! ergonomically correct isn't anything like politically correct because you won't insult any group of people if you get a cleat in the wrong place (OK. Maybe you will if they trip over it). What this term means is you should place your hardware so you can access it easily and comfortably. In other words, are you going to lose all the skin off your knuckles when you use that cam cleat, or is your mainsail trimmer going to get a winch handle in his spin if someone trims the headsail? These are only a few of the things that can happen if you don't think through block placement carefully.

OK. The time has come to drill through that factory perfect deck. You've checked and rechecked your parts and you're ready. DON'T HESITATE! JUST DRILL! This shouldn't have to be said, but try to drill your hole as straight as possible. It will make your hardware easier to install, look better, and you won't seem like a hack.

After you drill the hole, you need to figure out if the deck is cored or not. The best way to check this out is to take a close look at the "chips" (drill hole stuff). You should be able to tell the difference between pure glass and some type of core. If it looks like a balsa core, make the extra effort to seal the wood with a little bit of epoxy. Balsa wood absorbs water like a sponge. Once there is water in there, the core will most definitely rot and the deck becomes very soft and weak. Having to recore the deck is a huge price to pay for the luxury of cutting a corner.

Actually mounting the hardware isn't too hard, but you need to do it right. To mount any piece of hardware on any fiberglass surface it is always necessary to use a backing plate on the underside. The object, of course, is to keep things from ripping out of the deck. The best thing to use is an aluminum plate, but sometimes they can be hard to come by. Depending on what you're mounting, sometimes thick fender washers will do the trick on smaller items. But if it is something highly- loaded like a winch, then a backing plate is a must. However, if it is a small cleat, the washers will work fine.

Don't forget to properly caulk all the mounting holes or when it rains, life in the cabin will be like experiencing a Chinese water torture first hand.To prevent leaks, it generally works best to coat the screw with the caulk because it fills the hole better. If you just squirt caulk into the hole, the screw almost always pushes it out the other side in a blob.

The pros may be able to mount the hardware more quickly and efficiently, but think how much satisfaction you will get knowing you've done it yourself. Also, you will be just that much closer with your boat in a Zen like way. Besides, when that new block rips violently off the boat, there will be nobody else to blame.

Harken Yacht Equipment
1251 East Wisconsin Ave.
Pewaukee, Wisconsin 53072
Tel: (262) 691-3320
Fax: (262) 691-3008
[email protected] www.harken.com